Houston based fashion designer Amberry Jam sits down to talk petticoats, millinery, bobby pins, Velcro, and her Classic Harlequin line.

Interview: Divertida Devotchka Photos: Compliments of Amberry Jam

Q: You studied fashion design at the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale and then relocated to Houston to study costume design, right? On your website you state that there’s no reason that fashion and costumes should be kept separate. Tell us more about this philosophy.

Yes! Studying fashion made me feel very boxed in. It’s actually a boring field unless you work in a high end avant-garde fashion house, which very few people do. I started studying costume design as a back up and it changed my life. Entering the theater crowd introduced me to people who wanted to push boundaries on a daily basis and not just special occasions, and it’s contagious! I want to bring that fun ‘it’s my birthday, I’m wearing a tiara and glitter’ attitude to every day, and to help others do the same.

Q: Your website says that you believe that everyone should own at least one petticoat. Please share your ideas on the importance/versatility of the petticoat.

Oh they’re the best! There’s something about the gathering of tulle or lace around your body that is just so pretty. Maybe it’s the way it bounces around you when you walk; it just makes you happy. And they look fantastic with almost any outfit, alone or layered under or over a dress. I even wear them when I go to festivals or camping- they’re cute and I have a cushion no matter where I sit!

Q: You started studying millinery in your work in Houston theaters, correct? How long have you been studying and making hats?

I actually took an intro to millinery class in 2006 and fell in love with it. Those kinds of classes are few and far between though so I bought a few books and taught myself as much as I could. It was working under the craftmaster at the Alley Theater when I really flourished. We worked on Our Town and had to research, design, and create 20-something hats in 2 weeks. It was hard work but really rewarding.

Q: The majority of your work is custom orders, but you actually prefer that, don’t you?

Yes. Whether it’s a hat, pasties, or a full costume, I love being challenged and custom work definitely does that. And it’s always different. It might be bringing to life a customer’s sketch, creating a hat for an existing costume, or just being given a theme and getting to present your ideas for it. It keeps my work fun and introduces me to so many interesting people.

Q: There are tons of local costume designers, burlesque performers, and models who love DIY fashion and making hats and costumes. Given your design experience, what do you consider to be the most common costuming/hat-making errors that you’ve seen in the industry? In your opinion, what makes a bad costume or hat “bad”?

Too many bobby pins! Please attach an inner comb or headband! I once saw a beautiful silk and felt floral cocktail hat with at least 8 pins in holding it down. It completely overwhelmed the hat which is so sad because she clearly put a lot of work into it. For burlesque costumes, if you’re going to use Velcro, I think you should dye it to match the fabric. Even in large theaters, you can see that strip of fuzzy white from the back row. It might just be for a second, but anything that draws the eye away from you is bad.

Q: When did you release your Classic Harlequin line? What are your goals for Classic Harlequin (and beyond, for that matter)?

Classic-Harlequin.com was launched in October as my ‘ready to wear’ line. I wanted to create a line of hats that could be incorporated into your daily wear so that it no longer looks like daily wear. I’m so happy that it’s been well received by the retro and burlesque crowd, including the Pin-Up Society. That’s a group of girls who know how to dress (and drink!). I’m hoping that it continues to be successful and fuels interest in my custom and one-of-a-kind pieces.

Q: Anything you’d like to add?

Yes. Custom work is temporarily on hold until July. I’m touring a few art and music festivals in California this summer to sell my hats and spread the word about the south’s growing burlesque scene. But people can still see a gallery of past work, join my mailing list, or request work for when I get back by going to classic-harlequin.com or sending an email to AmberryJam@gmail.com.

Brownsville based pin-up model Ili Jean discusses Andy Warhol, makeup, and inspiration.

Q: What songs are in heavy rotation on your MP3 player right now?

Right now anything by: Johnny Thunders, France Gal, The Clash, The Velvet Underground, Wanda Jackson, The Shangri Las, The Ventures.
 
Q: You do a lot of conceptual shoots. How much of that is you, and how much of that is the photographers you choose to work with?

One can’t function without the other; a pack of wolves is as good as the hungriest wolf, and we’re all starving to do exactly what’s on our minds. I am very fortunate to be able to work with such artistically driven individuals; we work together on producing photo concepts that fill our goblet of creativity. As of late we have been taking a more avant garde approach which has kept our minds busy with tons of new in depth ideas.

Q: You don’t see a lot of pin-up models in Brownsville, Texas. What’s the scene like there? Do you find yourself mostly traveling for shoots?

Brownsville is a small town with a lot of room grow , the photographers I work with regularly, live here in the Rio Grande Valley, but I do mostly travel to perform more so than shoots.
 
Q: What are your top three favorite cosmetic products and why?

– Magic Power by Prescriptive is a translucent powder that gives skin a shimmery glow after you have applied your make up. I never leave home without it.
– Show Dior mascara is the only mascara on earth that has ever worked for me. The consistency is thick but not clumpy. I used it even after applying false eyelashes; it is a female must have!
– Dior black eyeliner maybe the most difficult eyeliner to take off, but by far the best! It will not budge!

 
Q: If you could sit down to dinner with 5 people, living or dead, who would they be and why?

A famous Baroque painter named Peter-Paul Rubens. Definitely Andy Warhol just as long as he doesn’t leave me barefoot and glamorous in New York City like Edie Sedgwick. Come to think of it I would really love to see what Rubens would have to say to Warhol about art and vice-versa. Jayne Mansfield, because a dinner party requires both beauty and class. Then maybe Buddy Holly and Joe Strummer. Joe Strummer has always had allot to say so I’m sure the conversation won’t get boring- as for Buddy, I could be the girl in “True Love Ways”.

Q: Your weight and weight loss have been topics you are open about through your blog. In a modern society of “thinner is better” beauty ideals, you have still maintained a high self-esteem. What advice would you give ladies who are struggling with weight issues?

My weight loss was a gradual process taking over a year. My weight will continue to yo-yo give or take a few pounds. I believe it was an overall good decision to get some more exercise and be healthier. I was never dissatisfied with what I weighed before; I just knew I was not getting enough exercise.

Today’s socially imposed beauty standards are unrealistic and frankly unachievable. One can spend a life time trying to climb the beauty ladder to perfection, but the truth is our bodies will continue to change as we do. I hope to inspire women to accept themselves and realize you can be beautiful and full figured.
 
Q: You maintain that higher education is a top priority. How do you manage to keep a firm head on your shoulders, and balance your shooting/performing schedule with school?

At times it feels there are just not enough hours in the day for it all. I have a planner I write in religiously, planning day by day. After I graduate with a bachelor’s degree I would like to get my master then continue school and get my PhD. So looks like I have to start getting used to the busy life early!

Q: You talk about the concept of re-invention. Do you view your alter egos as extensions of yourself with personalities all their own?

I view them simply as extensions of myself. A prism has many facets, and this is just one reflection of my many colorful artistic genres. I am constantly reinventing and craving creation; it’s a concept that never leaves me.
 
Q: If 100 years from now, there is an “Ili Jean” legacy, what would you want it to be?

Ultimately, I just want to have a positive influence on women, I would like to inspire through burlesque, art, and education.
 
Q: What does the future hold for Ili Jean? Any upcoming projects we should know about?

At the moment I am going to school full time, and hopefully by next semester will continue my studies at the University of North Texas in Denton. Right now the sky is the limit; I am excited to see what the future holds for me. When I think of what the future holds I always remember a great quote by Leslie Caron, which I hope to live by.

“I think it’s the end of progress if you stand still and think of what you’ve done in the past. I keep on.”
- Leslie Caron

Pin-Up Model and writer Lizzy D Vine of Sacramento, California talks Nor Cal Vixens, motherhood, and patriotism.

Interview by Divertida Devotchka

Are you a burlesque performer or strictly a pin up model and writer?

Currently, I am a model and a writer. I have ALWAYS had a deep appreciation for burlesque. My hope is to reach those who have misconceptions of the art today. My dream has been to extend myself into that arena. I recently took that leap alongside the lovely ladies of the Kountry Kittens. It was my debut and I will be part of many more troupe performances and individual performances as well.

I am also involved with the Nor Cal Vixens, which is a supportive, tightly knit group of gals. I suppose you could call us a sisterhood of creative and artistic individuals. I am also the co-producer and editor of a local public access show called Nor Cal Vixens Presents. The show was concocted by the lovely Michelle Barbaria and I’m glad to be part of it. We’ve done two segments- one on burlesque and one on fashion; they should be available for streaming soon.

You have 3 children. What ages? Boys or girls?

I sure do. They are an extreme joy! My husband and I just had our newest addition to the family, Emma Rae, on May 15th! We also have two amazing boys, Owen who turns 3 in December and Noah who just turned 6.

What do your children know about your involvement in the burlesque/pin up world?

Right now they don’t have a full grasp of what mommy does. What they notice is mommy getting dolled up or spending time on the computer. When I’m getting ready, my boys ask where I’m going and the infamous question at age 6 is “but why?” I simply answer, “Mommy and her friends are filming their TV show” or “Mommy will be at a catwalk rehearsal.” Sometimes they understand; other times they have their own translations. In their eyes Mommy and her friends are movie stars because they are on TV and Mommy walks with lots of cats.

I get things done while they are setting up for bed and while they sleep. I’m usually working on one of my many projects I own or am collaborating with someone on. I have The Burlesque Times, Operation: Patriotic Pin Up, and the Modern Pin Up Magazine that will release at the first of the year.

How do you feel about the possibility that your daughter may eventually be involved in burlesque/pin up?

(Chuckle) I think Dad might have a different opinion about our lil’ peanut, but I accept that there is a 50/50 chance that she may want to do the same as me. I will teach her to love herself, to respect herself, to hold true to herself and the rest we will leave to time. I can honestly say I will support her.

How long ago did you start Operation: Patriotic Pin Up? What exactly do you do?

Operation: Patriotic Pin Up is a charity-based community willing to provide moral support, packaged goodies and our appreciation to all of our deployed troops. We will be hosting fundraising events teaming up with several independent charities, websites, support groups and the local Veteran’s Hall.

The organization didn’t have a name until this year, but I’d like to think that the services that I did as a child were the very start of Operation: Patriotic Pin Up or at least they’re the deep-rooted reason as to how it came about in my adulthood. In elementary school I was adamant about collecting goodies for care packages and thank you letters so that when Mom and I sent care packages to my stepdad who was deployed, his platoon would receive goodies too. Mom showed me to exercise patriotism and my dad taught me to be grateful that I am an American.

Your bio states you are from a “strong military and patriotic background.” Can you tell me more about that?

My stepfather was in the USMC for many years and at a very early age I was taught to appreciate the good ole boys (and girls) that fight every day to keep my tail safe. I love our service men and women and this is the very least I can do. It’s because of them that my kids and I can sleep safely and do things freely.

Texas Pin-Up Model of the Year, Amber Deville recently sat down with us wearing a hat she made herself, to talk oatmeal, Bettie Davis, and horror films.
Cover photo: Through the Looking Glass.

What did you have for breakfast this morning?

I had peaches and cream oatmeal with water- yummy.

How did you fall in love with the pin-up era?

The musical Gypsy with Natalie Wood is how I feel in love with the pin-up era. My grandmother, the late Betty Jean, showed me the movie when I was thirteen and I just fell in love with it. I love how it showed the old vaudeville circuit and the burlesque dancers including Gypsy Rose Lee. I soon learned about more pin-up gals such as Maila Nurmi, Bettie Page, Tempest Storm, Marylin Monroe and so on . I just love the style, what can I say?

How did you get your start in modeling?

My mother put me in modeling school at the age of fifteen; it was the Kim Dawson agency. There they taught us how do walk the runway, pose in front of the camera, and how to do your make up just right for certain styles of photography. That’s where I started out, and here I am now.

You recently earned the title of Pin-Up Model of the Year at Hot Rods and Heels. Tell us about that experience.

Oh my god, I had so much fun at the event and I really did not expect to win. The other ladies are great models as well. It was such a great surprise, and I am so happy that people like what I have done so far. I expect to be putting more and more out there and working my little butt off. But yes, I am grateful that I won and I would like to thank Hot Rods and Heels for putting together a wonderful event. I can’t wait till next year!!

What is your biggest accomplishment so far?

Well, I would say the biggest is winning Pin-Up Model of the Year. This year has been so great, and I only hope it gets better.

What advice would you have for a gal who wants to get started in the pin-up modeling world?

If it is what you want to do, but you have people saying you’re not good enough- don’t listen to them. Work towards your goal; in the end it will all pay off. Don’t pay attention to the negative critics- you will get those, so you have to learn to let it go and just do what you love to do.

What are three characteristics of a professional model? (What skills should ladies bring to a shoot?)

Always show up to a shoot on time and don’t cancel at the last minute unless it’s an emergency.
Always come prepared and be ready to model your butt off.
Don’t be mean to your photographer- they work hard to get you great pictures.

Who are your favorite vixens?

That would be Miss Bette Davis! I love her movies- she was not afraid to say what was on her mind and did not ever care what the critics thought. She was always willing to take on a challenge. Bette Davis was and always will be an amazing actress and woman of her time.

Is “drama” an issue in the pin-up community? How do you handle it?

If there is an issue I don’t get involved in it. I think its best just to avoid drama and just have fun!

What does the future hold for Amber Deville?

I am hoping to get more into acting- I am filming right now. The movie is called Trace. It is a horror film by Remy St Paul…I am hoping to get more roles in other movies. I am also going to be modeling a lot more so be on the look-out for new sets to be posted. I love keeping busy and hope to accomplish a lot this year.

Hot Rods and Heels Texas Hair and Makeup Artist of the Year Rocio Vielma sat down with us to discuss Vi-Ve, NYC fashion week, artistry, and common makeup mistakes.

Did you always know you wanted a career in the arts?

Absolutely! My first passion was architecture (which I still love), then I was introduced to contemporary dance and fell in love. I have always been exposed to the arts.

What’s your training background? Did you attend school, apprentice someone, both?

I attended cosmetology school in Dallas back in ’03, learned hair (all about the “pin curls”) among many other things I am able to use now.

For Makeup I must say, besides the little they covered in school, I am pretty much self taught .

How did you make the transition to a full time hair & make-up artist? Describe how you got your start.

Always wanted to become a makeup artist! Always!!

Almost four years ago I told myself to go for it whatever it would take to get where I hope one day I can be , so far it has worked and I am so fortunate to have come across wonderful people that had helped me tremendously along this ride.

When did you found Vi-Ve Makeup and what’s the story behind the name?

Vi-Ve makeup was founded on August of 2005 almost 4 years ago.

As many people may know , I was born and raised in Monterrey, Mexico. We do use our full names including father’s and mother’s first last names , which in my case my last names are Vielma Vera, therefore, I took the first syllables from each last name and became Vi-Ve, I thought it would make my parents happy…and it worked!

What’s the best thing about owning your own business? What’s the hardest thing?

The hardest is the scheduling, being a mother of three wonderful cubs and trying my hardest to juggle all their activities and my work!

The easiest is not only being your own boss, to me is to be able to really do what you love to do , being aware of the challenges and still have the motivation to keep going since this is what I wanted to do when I grew up after all

You go out of your way not to pigeon-hole yourself as only doing one particular style of hair & make-up (ie. just pin-up). Why is diversity so important?

What a blessing for those who are willing to step out of the box and take risks to be able to grow professionally why not?! It is phenomenal!

If I only did pinup I wouldn’t be represented by an agency that’s just the plain truth, I wouldn’t be able to get all the work I do, doing Hair and Makeup has most definitely helped to increase my work .

As I stated before, “do not limit yourself , this beautiful profession is a never ending learning process, embrace it.”

Where do you get your inspiration?

Everywhere and everything! The internet is such a fantastic fountain of information nowadays for example, you can go and watch NY fashion week as its happening! I read a lot read, read, read, and more reading. Trust me, we need to study everything that can help us make our job easier.

What is your dream assignment?

Assignments! Haha !

The day I get to do Helena Bonham Carter, Cate Blanchett, Monicca Belucci, Audrey Tautou, Natalie Portman, Winona Ryder’s hair or makeup , that will be the day I will be in heaven!!!

What’s one common make-up mistake that women make?

I’ll give you a few:
-Fall for just one brand name.
-Being convinced that a makeup artist can make you look like the “A-lister” that looks nothing like you.
-Getting stuck in the best decade of your life.

How important are brand names? Is it important to get a certain brand of makeup?

Today we are exposed to so many different brands, and some of them have an amazing networking power over the general public, however doesn’t necessary means it is the best. Let me just take a minute to give advice about the true meaning of a freelancer, it means they work on their own , not for a brand name , when you come across with someone mentioning “I am a freelancer for X brand name”, no, there’s no such a thing! That person works for a company therefore they will do their best to sell you that brand , if you come across a true freelancer , they wont try to sell you anything! They will offer a general brand outlook and advice.

What is your advice for gals (and guys) who want to pursue a career as a hair & make-up artist for print work?

When I joined the cosmetology school I recall the teacher asking everyone of us what we wanted to do after graduation. After all, people change opinions and goals all the time and is valid, when it was my turn I said “I want to do makeup” everyone of course laughed and the teacher said what are you doing here? I said, “I want to be able to offer as much diversity on my work as I can if I can offer hair and makeup I will be able to get more work.”

From my entire class (36 people), I am one of three people who are still fulfilling our goal!

You will find so many challenges; be ready for them and take them as another class; in this never ending learning experience is a beautiful career!

What does the future hold for Vi-Ve Makeup and Rocio?

Hey I am just a makeup artist not a psychic! Hopefully we keep growing professionally and as a person so I can take anything and still act chilled about it …

Dayna Delux recently traveled back home to Dallas for a baby shower with friends a family and we were lucky enough to have her carve out an afternoon for us.  Here’s what she had to say about pregnancy, motherhood, and baby furnishings. 

 

Interview & Photographs:  Shoshana Portnoy, Through the Looking Glass Studio

Dayna Delux -- photographed by Shoshana of Through The Looking Glass Studio

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What was your first reaction to the news that you were pregnant?  How has it changed now?  (Are you more nervous than excited, etc)

 

 I already had a feeling I was pregnant but I was still surprised. I took like 8 pregnancy tests that day just to make sure. The first day or so we were in shock but excited now it has turned to nervousness! Time is getting close and I get more scared.

 

Do you have any names picked out?

 

We have a list of names but I am not naming him until I see him. I’m sure it’ll just come to me!

 

What has been the high point of the pregnancy?  The low point  (did you have icky morning sickness, etc)?

 

Well I was pregnant with twins and I lost one around 3 months so that’s the lowest point, but the highest point is knowing I still have one healthy baby boy coming. The 2 and a half months of puking my guts up was awful too.

 

Funniest pregnant moment:

 There have been so many… I suppose to me the funniest is the fact that my belly gets in the way of everything. I haven’t gotten use to it yet and it knocks things over and I bump into everything.

 

Did anything about pregnancy catch you off guard?  Something no one warned you about:

 People can warn you all day about things but until it happens to you won’t understand or believe it.  I didn’t believe my friends when they told me my hair dye wouldn’t stay and they were right. The color just washes right out!

 

Wanna give your fans a sneak inside the nursery?

 

We have been working on the baby room for weeks now. It’s a slow process with everything being so expensive. We are doing a nautical theme with sail boats, anchors, nautical stars, lighthouses, etc. I hate little kid looking stuff like teddy bears, Winnie the Pooh, and sesame street stuff. I think his room might look a little grown up for baby but it’s really for us anyway right? Ha Ha

 

 

What are the top three things you hope to instill in your son?

 

 Morals, consideration, confidence!

 

What is your idea of motherhood/ family life?

 Honestly I have no idea. I’m shooting in the dark and I pray I get it right.

 

How will you introduce your life as Dayna Delux, pin-up model to your son?

 I think he will just grow up with it because hopefully I’ll still be working. I hope I won’t have to tell him about when I use to model. Fingers crossed!

 

 

 

How will you juggle being a working mom?

 I’ll juggle it will my loving husband and good friends I hope.

 

 

Speaking of your husband, how’s he handling the news?

 

My husband is so cute and excited about the baby. He has been searching for the perfect Angles baseball outfit for months now and can’t wait to take him to his first game. He has also picked out the first car they are going to work on when he turns 14. It’s so great to have a supportive partner. I can’t wait to teach him how to swing dance and get him his first skate board. So many fun things to come!!

 

 

How will your work or working style change, or will it?

 Well I don’t think style will change at all but work will I’m sure. People will have to work around my schedule more than before and I’m sure I won’t have time for the little fun shoots. Only serious work now that I have less time.

 

 

What’s next professionally for Dayna & personally?

 

Everything, Why stop at one thing, I’m up for anything and focused. I’m going to be getting settled into being a mom and learning what that’s all about. My whole life is changing so everything is going to be new!