The Importance of Good Make-Up Brushes

By: Ladonna Hearne

“I know that one of the most important steps in make-up application is blending.  I want to invest in a good set of make-up brushes without spending a fortune.  Have any suggestions?”  Amanda, Dallas

Dear Amanda,

You are correct!  The first step in achieving a flawless makeup application is using a good set of brushes. This is especially important for blending eye shadow. A good brush will end up doing most of the work for you!

You can find good brushes in many places- I recommend MAC, Sephora, or Coastal Scents. I have even seen some good ones from Wal-Mart and Target, but you do have to know what to look for to get a decent cheap brush. A good brush should be very soft.  You’ll want to avoid synthetic fibers as they are coarser and stiffen with use.

It is important to keep your brushes clean.  Do this by using a brush cleaner, which can be purchased pretty much anywhere makeup is sold, or use a mild shampoo and water.  Rinse well. When immersing your brushes in water, always keep the bristles pointed down and lay them flat to dry. This prevents water from getting into the ferrel- the metal part of the brush holding the bristles.

On a limited budget, you can get away with just five brushes.

My top five essential brushes are:

Foundation –

MAC 116 brush – use this firm but fluffy brush in a circular buffing motion to blend   foundation seamlessly into skin.  For areas that need more coverage, use a pressing motion then blend with the tip.

Eye shadow –

MAC 224 brush – This is the best brush for blending eye shadow as you apply it!  Use a tight buffing motion combined with a back and forth windshield wiper motion. You can get a lot of detail with this brush by controlling the amount of bristles that touch the skin.

MAC 239 brush – this brush is great for controlled and dramatic application of shadow on the lid and blending the lower lash line.

Eyebrows and Liner-

MAC 266 brush – Helps create precise perfect eyebrows or use to define the lower lash line by “stamping” shadow between the lower lashes. You can also use this brush with liquid and crème liners.

Lip Brush! – Any lip brush makes a huge difference with control and precision of lipstick, especially with bright and dark colors

LaDonna Hearne sits down to talk Hot Rods and Heels, TFP, her upcoming marriage, and how getting fired changed her life for the better. Hearne will be teaching a workshop in make-up at 5pm at Hot Rods and Heels on May 15th

Interview: Divertida Devotchka

Q: You’re doing a pin-up hair and makeup workshop at Hot Rods and Heels this year. Have you ever done a workshop before? What are your expectations?

I have taught lessons and done a few workshops over the years. I feel really confident that the workshop will be very informative. I will mainly be covering the basics of a classic pinup look, but I will answer any questions that may come up. I also offer private lessons that can be scheduled with me at a later date.

Q: What’s the best advice you can offer a gal who wants to do create her own pin-up look?

The best advice I can offer to create a pinup look is to focus on the lips and keep everything else clean and simple. A well defined eyebrow also nicely pulls together a pinup look…and false eyelashes!

Q: You have a wealth of experience in the industry, dating back to 1995, correct? Please briefly describe your education and training.

I started my training back in 1994-95, with Diane’s School Of Modeling at the Diane Dick Modeling agency in Amarillo, Texas, where I also taught a few classes on makeup. From there I dabbled in the industry here and there while attending the University of North Texas majoring in Art History. I also took theatrical makeup at UNT. I then worked for MAC cosmetics for about 3 years, where I had a management position and was a member of the elite Impact Team.

Q: You’re known by some for saying that being fired was the best thing that ever happened to you. From what job were you fired and how did that open up new doors for you?

Leaving MAC ended up benefiting me greatly. I was definitely fed up with retail. My career at MAC led me to where I am today, but it took getting fired for being tardy in December 2008 to force me to pursue my real dream of being a professional makeup artist. Fortunately, my family and fiancé were very supportive, so I was able to build my business and get my name out there without getting distracted by a “real job”. I also have to thank all that networking I had been doing for the past decade when I was out and about. A lot of the friends I have made over the years grew up to be fabulous photographers and models, and they really helped me get on my feet.

Q: What advice do you have for those who want a gig like yours?

The best advice I can give to anyone who wants to do what I do is to go work for MAC or some other makeup line that offers training and the opportunity to work on all sorts of random people. You will be ready for any face that you are asked to work on. The other bit of very important advice I would give is don’t turn down TFP work (trade for print), unless the photographer totally sucks. EVERY job I have done for trade has led me to more clients and paid gigs. Treat every job like you are making $100 per hour. You never know who is watching!

Q: What’s the most rewarding aspect of your job? The most challenging aspect?

The most rewarding aspect of my job is helping to create art and making people feel great about themselves. I love working with regular gals, some who have never worn makeup or felt pretty. There is beauty in every woman, and it is awesome to help them discover that. It’s also fun working with my modely-models and coming up with creative new concepts!

The most challenging aspect of my job would probably be finding time for my family. I am usually the busiest on weekends, I start very early (8 or earlier) and do as many jobs as I can cram into my day and night, sometimes 4 or 5 all over the metroplex. Just looking at my schedule makes my feet hurt sometimes. I love what I do so it doesn’t really feel like work!

Q: Do you have any makeup pet peeves or makeup pitfalls to which you think most women commonly succumb?

Never skip mascara! Otherwise have fun, be creative, and the rules are made to be broken. Perfecting the skin with at least a little concealer or powder is essential for pulling off any makeup look. I love to see creative, crazy makeup on people, but it just doesn’t work if your zits and dark under-eye circles are uncovered.

Q: Any upcoming events or projects you’d like to discuss?

I have several projects coming up that I am really excited about, not limited to but including a big campaign with Shelly Singleton of SKS Cosmetics showcasing her makeup line, a fabulous shoot with Through the Looking Glass Studios involving a huge moon prop, a House of Mob fashion show, and a Brutal Beauties shoot with Roxanne Dale by H. James Hoff for Brutal Industries. I am also look forward to resuming my Lempicka project that I have been working on with Neither Noir Studios and anything involving accessories by Slipshod Sally. And of course my wedding to Jason Stein in October!

Q: What goals do you have for the upcoming year?

One of my goals for the upcoming year is to get more of my work published in magazines. My work will be in a spread in an upcoming issue of AltNoir magazine featuring Kaia in clothing by Victoria Velvet shot by H. James Hoff. I would also like to see more development of the Brutal Beauties project by Brutal Industries, and help my friends in the industry become more successful and achieve their goals too!

Q: What are your 5 favorite beauty products?

Eyeshadow by SKS cosmetics, dry spray wax for hair, MAC Brushes (essentials – 224, 212, 160), MAC Russian Red Lipstick, Magic Powder by SKS cosmetics

Almost all of the big name pin-up models wear red lipstick. All of the modern beauty magazines say not to line your lips when wearing red, and to do minimal eye make-up. When I try and wear red, I’m just not pulling it off. How can I successfully create the vintage pinup look with red lipstick? — Samantha in Houston

Samantha in Houston,

Red lips are a classic pinup look and can pick up your whole face when you don’t have a lot of time for makeup.  My best advice for wearing them well is to always apply a dark or bright lipstick with a lip brush so that you have total control and can achieve perfect symmetry.  If you are not comfortable with a true red, then try a sheer red lipstick or gloss, or tone it down with a brown lip liner. Just be sure to blend really well!  It also helps to wear a light application of a bright blush in the same tone as the lipstick.  This will pull the whole look together.  The general rule with red lips is to keep the eyes more neutral.  You can’t go wrong with a nice black liquid eyeliner on the upper lash line.  Now go and be fabulous!

–LaDonna Hearne of Drop Dead Gorgeous