With: Black Mariah

Recently, I discovered that many of you ladies are having difficulty applying your false eyelashes, or worse, won’t wear any at all, because you are not confident in applying your lashes. Consider this article your “falsies for newbies” guide to applying eyelashes properly and safely.

1. To apply eyelashes on your own, first begin by washing your face with a PH balanced, oil free cleanser of your choice. Pat your face dry with a towel and do not moisturize your face just yet. Your lashes should be the first item you apply in your make-up ritual.

2. Take your lashes out of the package and remove them both from their seats on the insert. Lay each eyelash on the insert you just pulled it from (this helps keep the lashes from being placed on the wrong eyelid). If you need to make your lashes smaller, this is the time to do so. Lashes are made larger as you can make them smaller, but never larger. To reduce the size of the lash, use small detailing scissors and snip in 1/8” increments from the inside of the lash that sits closest to the nose.

3. Pick up your lash and pinch the lash tips between your fingers in your non-dominant hand, exposing the lash band towards your face. With your lash glue tube in your dominant hand, place the tip of the glue at one end of the lash band and squeeze gently until the glue comes out of the tip. Run a thin line of glue along the band of the lash to the opposite end. Lay the lash down with the glued lash band facing up, and repeat with the other lash. When both lashes have glue applied, pick up the first lash on which you applied glue. The glue needs 15-30 seconds to cure which is why you place glue on both lashes before applying so work diligently.

4. Grab the lash by the lash tips and close the eye you are will apply the lash onto. Remember, that the lash band is going to be placed just above the eyelash line! Do not place your lash on your lash hairs! Removing eyelash glue from hair is next to impossible and very painful. Center the lash where you want it to stay and press the center of the band into the center of the eyelid, then press the edges down out towards the ends of the lash around the curve of your lid to the edges. Hold the ends for about 10 -15 seconds. When you let go, the lash should stay against your lid. If not continue to hold another 5 seconds. Repeat with the other eye.

5. When you are finished, feel free to then moisturize and continue with your regular make-up regiment. Try not to be distracted by your new divine peepers while you work. You have a show to get ready for!

Next month, individual lashes with visual help!

Send your burning burlesque questions Black Mariah c/o editor@pincurlmag.com

Shake a tail feather with Black Mariah

No need to post an emailed question this month because I have had DOZENS of emails from burlesque dancer wanting to purchase ostrich feather fans. I thought these emails came at a great time as I just purchased my third pair of ostrich feather fans, and let me tell you, I thought I knew everything about fans, and I did not. With that, let me educate all of you potential feather flaunters in how to purchase your first pair of fans wisely.

When I bought my first set of ostrich feather fans, there were only a few websites selling “Sally Rand” fans. I must have searched over a month before I settled on a fan vendor and sent my payment for my fans. When I received my fans from the company that shall not be names, I was incredibly disappointed. They weren’t nearly as full as they appeared in the picture, and they didn’t open up to even 45 degrees the fan staves were wooden but not painted to match the black feathers, just wood. I made the best with the purchase and went on to make a great number with them. I just chalked it up to a life lesson of “You get what you pay for”. The fans I purchased were really only about $120 less than the fans I COULD HAVE gotten from a competing company which I would have been extremely happy to have. I purchased a pair later from ostrich.com, but had bought the cheapest fans which were the full sized single layer fans. When I received them, I was not satisfied as they too were not as full as I thought they were, which was no fault of ostrich.com, as the pictures on the website accurately depicted the product. I just didn’t know any better. Here are the important details I wished I had known before I made both of those purchases.

1. Buy at least double layer fans — Ostrich feathers are thin and dainty quills. If you hold a large sized feather (the size used in feather fans) up, you can see through them. If you hold two together, one in front of the other, the objects behind the two feathers are hidden; hence your naughty bits will not be exposed. Triple layer is best, if you purchase fans with clear staves. The third layer is a short set of feathers set low on the staves, starting just about the connecting screw. The third layer actually covers the clear part of the bottom of the fan staves that would be a point of exposure. Some vendors also sell fans with colored staves, in which case the third layer would only be a preference and not a need.

2. Purchase pre assembled fans I am incredibly crafty and know my way around all of the tools in our garage. I would even go as far as to describe myself as the very definition of DIY. However adding a second layer of feathers to a set of white feather single layer fans was a very humbling experience. It took me three days of wrestling with wire, wire pliers, clamps and ostrich feathers which I might explain, do not like to lay flat- EVER. They rolled and moved, and caught the wind easily and slid out of there places. It was very difficult. The Ostrich.com website suggests that the approximate assembly time is 75 minutes per fan. I am pretty sure it took me much longer when dealing with two feathers per stave. The lesson here is that it is not NEARLY as easy as it sounds. The last purchase I made from ostrich.com, I purchased pre assembled. It was worth the extra charge to let a professional do it and make it look nice.

3. Wide open spaces Know the dimensions of your stage before you commit to using your fans in a show. A stage that is 10 ft wide is too small. Full sized fans should measure 30” from the anchor screw to the tip of the feather. My arm measure 25” from shoulder to thumb. In a full arm extension with one fan out to the side of your body, you would need 55” of clearance just to perform a basic extension swirl. That is 4.5 ft. So double that for the other fan on the opposite side of your body and that is 9 feet of space just to complete two arm extension swirls, leave one tiny foot of space for your body to move about. Constrained movement does not make for a beautiful fan dance.

4. Quality feather fans are made from male ostrich wings. Not until this fact was pointed out to me did I realize the stark difference between male and female feathers. Male feathers are the feathers used in the most beautiful fans. In the bird kingdom males have the ornate and brightly colored plumage, solely for courting and mating with females. Oh the irony that we humans are quite opposite. Male feathers will also bleach completely and thoroughly to a bright white. While female feather will bleach to white, they are likely to retain dark brown or black spots of color. I am not clear as to why, but the male feathers will bleach all the way to white. I looked at many websites offering “quality” feather fans at much more desirable prices. It was only now that I noticed phrases like “femina wing feathers” in the sales description. Be very diligent when you read the descriptions about a potential fan you would like to purchase. Remember that “you get what you pay for” and this phrase is incredibly true with fans. If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Second hand fans are the exception to this rule.

5. Unique, like everyone else Ostrich feather fans are a beautiful, unique addition to your repertoire, however there is at least one fan dancer in every major city. In a festival, or competition setting, you can guarantee that most dancers will want to enter their fan dances, as it is no doubt their strongest, and the most glamorous of their routines. Imagine, one show getting auditions from 20 dancers, and 18 of them want to enter the show or competition with a fan dance! Understand that although you may have a unique routine, or feel your fan dance is worthy of a national level of performance, almost every dancer or troupe has a fan dancer, and they all feel the same way. You will be more likely to get a slot in a competition or festival showcase by submitting anything but a fan dance. In fact, as a rule across the board of performances, I would stray from entering ANYTHING that might be a commonly used song, or theme. (i.e. fans, cabaret chairs, top hat and cane, Sarah Palin, Little Red Riding hood)

6. Lessons and Practice A fan class from a professional or even a fan dance instructional video will do wonders for your technique, and give you a good set of basic fan dance skills to which you will have the tools to create unique moves and choreography on your own. You should work to develop your own style and personality with fans. After all, while you are concealing yourself with beautiful plumage, your feet and face have to make up for all of the body that you are not showing.

7. Choreography The internet has opened the doors for information to just appear right at our fingertips. It helps to watch as many fan videos as you possibly can. Some of the performances available for your viewing are simply amazing. You may be tempted yourself to utilize some of the moves or tricks you see in these videos. I have been asked if that was OK to do, and I warn all of you to tread this line carefully. “Moves” can be named but not copyrighted. Sets and combinations of moves in the order they were performed CAN be copyrighted and is definitely stealing choreography. If you are unsure, email the dancer and explain the move that you would like to use in your routine, and ask permission before busting a fan move out as your own. Many dancers are flattered for a newbie to love their creations, and don’t mind a bit if they are borrowed.

I personally use ostrich.com for my entire feather and fan needs. Cindy is the best and is the most personable customer service rep I have ever experienced. This company cares so much for their clients and it’s no surprise that much of their business is repeat customers. I have only received the best product from the company and have always been satisfied with my purchases. Ostrich.com has an incredibly diverse selection of fans in a huge budget range.

I know that many of the top performers and teachers also use featherstore.com in which you can find fans with colored staves.

A new feather fan designer here in Dallas by the name of Meleea’s bazaar shop creates custom fans for her customers and as I know a few dancers who have utilized her very talented fan making skills, they were very happy with their purchase from her. Meleea appears to serve much of the belly dance community so you may find other very unique items for your dances in her store!

Thanks so much for reading and if this article helped you in selecting your own fans, send us a picture!

I heard this song in a burlesque show a long time ago and I have been dying to use it in a number. However I feel a little weird about it…Do you think it might be OK for me to use the same song since the other performer did it a long time ago?
Thanks,
Maddie, NYC

Dear Maddie,
This is a good question! No one performer can claim the rights to any song legally. Songs belong to the artist that originally performed the song or even the record company who produced it. From a legal standpoint, using songs used by other performers is not illegal and you won’t get sued. From a social standpoint, however, its a good idea to avoid song crossovers with other performers.

This is incredibly difficult however, since most performers don’t publish their song lists, and it’s nearly impossible to show up at every burlesque show know a performer’s entire repertoire. Try, if at all possible, to avoid songs used by other performers, at least within a 50 mile radius or within the same performing circles. If you know the song is used by another burlesque performer and you feel using the song may cause an awkward situation, simply ask the dancer if he/she would mind if you used the song as well. Many times, the performer will not mind at all , so long as you are not using their concept as well. Don’t be offended if the performer does mind you using the particular song. You have avoided an impending conflict by asking, and there could be circumstances you are unaware of giving rise to the performer turning down your request. The song may be part of a performer’s signature act, or they have won prestige and recognition with the use of that song, which would be a very valid reason to turn down another performers request to use the same song.

Performing a song that another performer uses knowingly is insulting to the other peformer, insinuating that you could take their inspiration and do it better. None of us want to insult eachother, do we? Some crossovers are just unavoidable. The problem lies when two performers, who want to use the same song, end up on the same stage together in one evening. It happens a lot more than performers imagine it possibly could, especially in a festival situation.

The best advice I can give is this: if you are just set on performing the song, look into other versions performed by other artists. Sometimes you can find very interesting covers of songs that are even better than the original recording! Another sure fire way to have an original piece of music to perform to is to either have a musician compose an original piece for you or to remix the music you want to use. The finest music are pieces that sample other songs or combine two songs into a longer number. This route ensures that no one can possibly end up performing the same number as you without blatantly stealing your music mix! Originality is the key to a unique performance.

Love and Tassels,
Black Mariah

I need a burlesque name. I have researched and found these ridiculous formulas or generators for creating your burlesque name but I end up with names like Freckles McDermand Blvd, or Lil’ Comfort Bandersnatch (I did not make that up) . How can I find something original and, well, not like the names I just listed? Daisy, Michigan

Dear Daisy,

I think coming up with a burlesque performer name just might be the hardest part about beginning your burlesque career. It’s important, because it’s your verbal calling card, as well as a way to thwart stalkers from finding your address and stealing your underwear. How do you manage to come up with the perfect name that is catchy and describes your personality and style for the rest of your career? No pressure, huh? My first suggestion would be to get a yahoo account and join the “Burlesque Stage Names” group. This group has a database of burlesque performer names registered by the performers themselves. This list compiles the troupe names, the performer names, and the years the names have been in use. This list is by no means a complete list of the names used by performers to date, as the database relies on the performer to register his/her name. It is also one of the places you should check your burlesque name against once you have decided on your stage name. You may peruse the name registry to get an idea of other names used and the trends. I would come up with name that describes you as a performer and lends a nod to the type of burlesque that you intend to perform. Classic performers often use sexy words, other languages, cultural references, or add a predicate to their last name like De or Von. Many dancers choose names that reflect their “biography” they invent for their stage personas which could be loosely based on your own past and genealogy! Some performers even hold onto a part of their real name and substitute a stage name for half of their own.

Your performer name is not something to be taken lightly. Your performance is your business, so your name is your brand. Definitely research names, think about your personality and style, check out some sexy foreign or English words, and make a list of possible names. It will come to you. You will know it when you see it.

Lastly, once you have settled on a name, check it against the Burlesque Names database, as well as use search engines to check for other dancers using the same name. Adding the word “burlesque” into the search after your new name will help narrow down the search to only burlesque dancers.

-Black Mariah

Dear Pin Curl,
Many of my pictures that have been taken onstage or out with fans, my face appears to be lighter than my neck or the rest of my body. I have changes make up and nothing helps. I don’t look that way in the mirror after I apply my make-up. Please help.

Ah yes. “Ghost face” as many refer to it, is a phenomenon that occurs when the flash from a camera reflects off of your face, creating the illusion that the skin on your face is significantly paler than the rest of the neck and body. Pale or fair skinned lovelies tend to never have this issue, but those of us with freckles, color variations, or any skin type darker than pale or fair, can definitely relate to this problem. Translucent powder is also a catalyst in “ghosting”, but can be easily remedied by switching your powder to an actual shade close to the color of your skin.

The culprit, in most cases, is SPF in foundation. Yeah yeah, I know, don’t leave home without it, right? This is true unless you plan to perform on stage and be photographed in the low light or mood light of clubs or the stage. Foundation often includes some sort of SPF to protect your skin. This is a great revolution in makeup as some SPFs can sweat off or even refuse to mix with foundation. Make-up manufacturers have made it easy for us by including it in their products and giving us the benefit of a protection from skin cancer. Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are the most commonly used SPF ingredient. At their basic pure state, they are no more than thick bright white powder. Titanium Dioxide is also found in artist’s paint, the purest white an artist can purchase. Zinc Oxide has been used in SPF since Moses was a baby. Some lifeguards at pools still used it on their noses as one can always see when it has rubbed or worn off, from the bright white streak.

For stage or performance, you will need to select a completely different type of makeup, one that does not include an SPF. You should only wear this makeup indoors or in the evening, and keep using your regular foundation with an SPF during the day. Your local department or pharmacy will also carry brands that do not have an SPF included in the mixture. The makeup to stay away from for your performance should say on the container SPFxxxx. When you find makeup that does not state an SPF on its label, turn the product over and read the ingredient’s list. If the first 5 ingredients are “Titanium Dioxide” or “Zinc Oxide”, then do not buy it for this application, continue looking for another product.

Large department stores have a Make-up peddling area you can visit, try products, and learn more about the product from representatives. The employees are often make-up artists by trade and know more about the product than the manufacturer. A good make-up artist will be able to tell you, without hesitation, which make-up will work best for you in a photography environment. Be sure that you explain exactly what you are looking for and why you need the SPF free make up.

There are brands of makeup specifically designed for photography like Smashbox, MAC, and Too-Faced. Sometimes these brands come with a larger price tag than you may be used to, but offer professional discounts incentives for artists and performers. As a performer, your beauty products are investment, just like the quality of your costumes, the care of your hair and your choreography. Spending a little more on your make-up now will give you better results in your live photos, which you will want to use for promotional purposes later.
Other things that can cause undesirable reflection or glimmering are products that contain glitter, or “frost” as well as products that promise a “glow”. All will have some sort of glitter or reflective ingredient and can produce unnatural brightness or hot spots on your face in photography. Good Luck!

-Black Mariah

I’m just getting into performing burlesque, and of course, I am very money conscious (read: broke). I am currently buying costumes, pasties, props…. How can I do some of this on the cheap?
-Lucy, Pheonix AZ

Good Question!
Burlesque rookies have to start somewhere, but that doesn’t mean you have to LOOK like a rookie! Rarely does the budding burly-q babe have an extensive budget with which to outfit and prop her numbers. There are a couple of ways to be ultra fabulous on a budget, but you have to be very resourceful.

1. Consider costuming your numbers from items that you already own. Upon first inspection, you may not think your closet may hold anything that screams Sex Kitten. Look for items that are sexy like corsets, panties, heels, bras, and prom or bridesmaids dresses. Consider apparel that you may not wear often, things you would not mind parting with or even of you do, wouldn’t mind updating for more frequent use. After all, wouldn’t your clothes be happier in the spotlight than on the hanger? Now look at each item and think “How can I make this look unique, and more custom made.” Sequins, rhinestones, trims, fringe, feathers, embroidery, and patches are all quick, low cost additions you can make to apparel to bring them closer to stage ready. The idea is to make your costumes one of a kind, not off the rack at Wal-burlesque-mart or Stripper-avenue-department store.
2. One of my favorite places to bargain for burlesque goodies is my local thrift store. Oh if audiences only knew how little I spent on some of my costumes……I’m not sure I would have their respect anymore! I can’t even box a style of burlesque that would have more reason over another to peruse a thrift store for their next costume piece! I have snagged vintage stockings, perfectly spotless designer prom dresses, the perfect cabaret chairs as well as numerous other props and costume pieces that made the perfect addition to a number. I often peruse them just to stock up on items that look like something I can make use of in the future. Designer apparel is not a requirement to be a burlesque dancer. No one should be looking at your tags while you dance anyway!
3. Some much desired burlesque props are quite an investment. The price is well worth the beautiful result, but to the beginning dancer trying to make her mark, how do you justify such a cost when you aren’t making that much in your first year of performance? If you are in a burlesque group/troupe or you and a fellow burlesque dancer care to split the tab, then consider pooling your investment into community props that all may be interested in using. Ostrich feather fans, for example, are an investment in your career, but a large investment. Quality feather fans may cost upward of $500-$1000 dollars. A set of community fans may be the answer to this financial dilemma. Cabaret chairs, corsets in bulk, set props are all items you could share the cost, and still get the look you want. There are also many burlesque sites that offer tutorials on how to create expensive props on a budget like fans and glitter chairs. Many websites offer bulk feather that may be slightly damaged or a bit off the dye lot for a huge discount. Rhinestones by the gross are also a major way to save dollars while making your 4 dollar dress look like a million bucks! If items have imperfections, add rhinestones or sequins. You can’t go wrong with adding sparkle.
4. Lastly, sewing is a great way to cut your costuming costs. The amount you can save is just immeasurable. Simple tucks and hems go a long way in giving you greater dynamic in your costume pieces. The ability to sew leaves you the choice between altering an item you already have or could buy for cheap, and spending time and energy and much more money searching for that perfect dress or bra. Many fabric stores offer free sewing lessons, but I bet by just asking your friends you will find at least one who knows how to sew and will more than happy to teach you or sew for you. Many people have sewing machines they don’t use or don’t know how to use, and that might be a clever way to acquire a machine to learn with, if only until you can purchase your own!

Thanks so much for the question Lucy and good luck with your budding burly-q debut!

Speaking of Sewing and being Crafty, Next month, in addition to the question, I will leave you lucky readers with a how to on…….MAKING PASTIES!!!!!! I KNOW YOU ARE EXCITED! You are already dreaming of twirling tassles aren’t you?!

Ask A Burlesque Entertainer:   featuring Black Mariah

 

Q:     I want to be a burlesque dancer. Where do I start?

 

A: 

There are many avenues available for pursuing a career as a burlesque dancer. The path you choose for your personal road to fringe and pasties will depend on your location, your budget, and the opportunities available for your debut performance.

Explore the variety and never ending world of Burlesque. I strongly recommend taking in as many burlesque performances as you possibly can, with as wide a variety of performers as you can find. Thanks to the internet, you can also easily peruse videos of burlesque performance. The internet will give you the widest range of performances that you will not, more than likely, have the pleasure of attending locally. Researching videos and attending live shows should give you a better idea of what style of burlesque you would like to perform, however, keep an open mind to performing all styles of dance and burlesque.

Seek out local burlesque troupes or soloists. If you do not have a burlesque troupe or performer within driving distance, find either in the nearest proximity and check their calendar for performances and tour dates and classes.  Many burlesque dancers offer beginners classes or workshops at a very reasonable fee. These are extremely informative in all aspects of burlesque, not just dance. Many classes or workshops will cover costuming, makeup and hair, making pasties , and even prop techniques (fans, boas, chair, etc.). If you know of a good number of girls interested in taking such a class as well, some teachers will arrange to travel if a full class can be scheduled. Traveling to a class is a great option too as you will have the opportunity to network with other performers!

Be Realistic  Be realistic about your entire endeavor from the first moment you decide to become a burlesque dancer. Be realistic most importantly about your budget. You will find many dancers have incredibly lavish costumes, covered in Swarovski rhinestones, and expensive props. Not one dancer began their career with all of these things already in hand, and you don’t either. Dancers are creative and resourceful, often building their own props and sewing their own costumes to achieve the lavish look.  Semi-professional and professional dancers will gauge the expense of new costumes or props based on the amount they make per show.

Begin with your inspiration Begin to build on whatever has inspired the vision of your first performance, whether it is music, a favorite costume piece from your closet, or the perfect pair of heels.  Create the costume based on your concept. Remember that each layer of costuming you take off, what’s left must look good together on its own. Everything must work together. Try to work with things you already own.  If you must invest in clothing, then stick with a budget and make what you own and what you can afford, work! Embellish your items so that your costume pieces are unique and tailored to your concept. As for your dance, don’t be afraid to hire a choreographer. Many dance instructors live to break out of their curriculum and try something new like this. If you are well versed in dance and choreography, choreographing your own piece is alright too. Whichever your choice, your piece should be well thought out and rehearsed. Nothing is more uncomfortable than watching a burlesque dancer struggling to remember her dance steps or how to take a costume piece off because she didn’t practice. And when you don’t practice, it shows.   

Got a question you’d like answered by a pin-up model or burlesque star?  Send your questions to editor@pincurlmag.com